I've never written a restaurant review before, but then part of the beauty of having a blog is that you can do whatever the hell you like!If you don't like this place, my suggestion is to get yourself a 'check-up from the neck up', as a former colleague would say. For me, it represents everything that is good about eating and relaxing. It's also an any-time-of-day kind of place, so - once you know it's there - you just have to wait for that 'Cafe No.8 urge' to descend upon you (it will) and, provided you're in the vicinity, you can try your luck and see if they've got a table.
There aren't many of them, mind you (tables, that is). I'd say about seven inside and a similar number arrayed around the delightfully overgrown back garden which lies within spitting distance of York's medieval walls. (Not that you're likely to get spat on here, given the largely genteel nature of the city.)
What the place lacks in size it more than makes up for in quality and atmosphere. While the kitchen itself is hardly large enough to swing a Spanish chorizo, its staff work diligently within its cramped confines to turn out food of consistently mouthwatering quality. Whether you stop by for a quick Masham sausage doorstop sandwich while reading the morning paper, or indulge in a full-blown meal, you're unlikely to leave disappointed.
If more fortification is required from your breakfast (perhaps before tackling a circuit of the ancient walls or hitting York's uniquely varied shopping scene), then go for the Full English, complete with Doreen's black pudding and creamy scrambled eggs. If you've already seen the sights and marvelled at the breathtaking Minster (conveniently situated just around the corner), then this is the place to seek out for a spot of well-earned R'n'R (those time-worn flagstones and cobbles can be hard on the feet, after all!). The daytime menu is served throughout the afternoon and features a tempting array of sandwiches, salads, risottos, bruschette and home-made burgers, as well as a choice of meat or fish dishes - the cod fishcakes with roast cherry tomatoes and smoked red wine, chorizo & butter bean sauce looked particularly tempting.
Yesterday, I took advantage of the 'lunch deal' (any two courses for £11.95, Monday to Friday), taking the chance to relax in the peaceful surrounds of the garden while soaking up the unexpectedly warm springtime sunshine. This proved to be time extremely well spent. To start, the Cafe No.8 deli plate (char grilled artichokes; sun blush tomatoes; olives; fresh anchovies; goats cheese and tomato pate; creamy hummus and toasted bread) made my good mood even better. In spite of the warm weather, I talked myself out of the goats cheese salad, feeling unable to resist the char grilled rump steak with chunky chips, slow roast tomatoes and Madeira sauce. I didn't regret it. The steak was as succulent and as tasty as any I can remember (cooked just to the point of bloodiness - 'a point', as the French would describe it). The hand-cut chips, meanwhile, were a thick cut above anything you would get in the best of Parisian bistrots or brasseries. The Madeira sauce and tiny shallots just brought all the flavours together beautifully, as did my large glass of very acceptable Chilean Merlot.And that, I'm afraid, was me done. The raspberry and white chocolate cheesecake was, on this occasion, surplus to requirements. As was the banoffee pie and the rhubarb & custard pavlova. A small tip: if you really want to enjoy the cakes here, then pop in during the late afternoon so as not to be distracted by the rest of the menu.
The only drawback this place has is one of its most charming features - its diminutive size. So if you want to bag one of those seven tables in the evening, be sure to call ahead. The service, as you would expect from such a place, is courteous, friendly and informal. They didn't bother bringing my bill out to me yesterday afternoon, leaving me to enjoy my book and the birdsong in the garden. Now that's the kind of civilised, European attitude that we should see more of in this country.
Cafe No.8 - 8 Gillygate, York. Telephone 01904 653074. www.cafeno8.co.uk












